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Since opening in 2019, Thomas and Mariah Pisha-Duffly have tickled our brains with some of the best eats anywhere-singular Indonesian-Chinese(ish) food, a whirling blender of family traditions and Thomas’s boundary-shredding food mind. The best way to eat here: let the kitchen cook for you. A “Rice Table Experience” is now Gado Gado’s centerpiece, with distinct omnivore and vegan menus. A la carte dishes are available for walk-ins, but only a fool would miss the kitchen’s riff on the Dutch-Indonesian rijsttafel feast. Expect waves of sambals, curries, dumplings, salads, grilled things, and desserts. In Gado Gado speak, that might mean Balinese duck satay, onion fritters sided by fermented coconut chutney and mezcal-pickled raisins, and roti apple hand pies. To drink: popping boba jello shots, anyone? 1801 NE Cesar E Chavez Blvd -KBĪt this indie neighborhood spot, tortas on toasted telera rolls are the show. The Jaliscan-inspired ahogada-carnitas-stuffed and knee deep in achiote tomato sauce-cartwheels across the tongue like a smiling demon: messy, spicy, and wicked delicious.
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The Desayuno, another fave, taps braised beef and chicharron de queso to upgrade the fried egg sandwich. Meanwhile, one of the city’s best bowls lives here, rife with pinto beans and toasted corn and swathed in avocado dressing.
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The mood is elevated by a tidy list of mezcals and tequilas. In 2002, harebrained food philosopher John Taboada conceived a tiny “eat spot” with the feel of a park bench and a kind of lawlessness in the air. There’s still nothing quite like it: the dim sum-like plates, the ugly-delicious vegetable gestalt, the abiding wine passion, the delightful brunch that still worships French butter and homemade jam.
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Every few months, Taboada and his trusted kitchen crew plunge half the menu into a culinary exploration, Portugal to the Loire Valley, with wines to match. If authentic Portland can be summed up in one word, Navarre is it. 10 NE 28th Ave -KBįlames greet you just inside the door like the Burning Bush. A hand-cranked wood-burning grill is the centerpiece of Ox and the chariot to heavenly chops, ribeyes, and chorizo glazed in signature fatty, garlicky Black Gold juice drippings. The menu-Argentinian barbecue, coal-fired vegetables, a little Portland food mania-rarely changes and nearly every dish is a house classic, including the spicy beef tripe. Clam chowder is the star, fresh, deep, and garnished the Ox way with a smoked bone marrow the size of a Grecian pillar. Leave it to Naomi Pomeroy, Portland’s DIY Julia Child, to up the sidewalk dining game. Weatherproofed cafe tables, royal blue plates, fancy pastas, curated cheese plates, intricate salads, and lovely wines only hint at the options at this "all day cafe," noon till evening. It’s the food we’ve been missing since Pomeroy shuttered her iconic Beast in 2020 and reopened months later as a boutique market stocked with restaurant-quality food to go.